Home-Barista.com

Mahlkonig Tanzania for drip & French press

Sun, 01 Aug 2010 02:02:00 GMT

by sweaner on Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:02 pm

Rafael, you are clearly insane!

Isn't this like purchasing a sidewinder missile for rabbit hunting? However, I will be happy to check it out at our next get-together.

Scott
LMWDP #248

Man does not live by coffee alone. Have a danish.

Help, No Water from Grouphead of Vibiemme Domobar Super

Sun, 01 Aug 2010 01:56:00 GMT

by Randy G. on Sat Jul 31, 2010 9:56 pm

While I have been using VBM DS for a number of years, I am no expert.. really. I know some experts, and they aren't me.

Time since last descale is not an indicator of need to descale, at least to we readers. It is only relevant to the amount of use your machine gets and the quality (or lack thereof) of the water used. When descaling you can remove the water level sensor and look into the boiler for a visual inspection where it counts.

For point of reference, I descale about once a year, and did the visual inspection mentioned above. The boiler was clean, but there was a light coat of minerals on the heating element of HX (it was difficult to see). My plan is to wait about 6 to 8 months for the next descale, then I intend to pull the heating element for inspection and possible cleaning. I use a mix of RO water and Brita filtered water. My household water is very high in calcium/lime.

Espresso! My Espresso!
http://www.EspressoMyEspresso.com

Dead Olympia Cremina Heating Element

Sun, 01 Aug 2010 01:30:06 GMT

by CRCasey on Sat Jul 31, 2010 9:30 pm

Can you point out what type of epoxy Barb was using on the reseal? What is it rated to for temp stability?

-Cecil

Black as the devil, hot as hell, pure as an angel, sweet as love:LMWDP#244

Can someone explain how best to stabilize the grouphead temperature?

Sun, 01 Aug 2010 01:28:55 GMT

by mteahan on Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:24 am

Conicals rock.

I have a small, conical gear reduction drive on demand grinder I got from Spain that makes better espresso than anything else we have in the shop. Funny thing is that our suppliers thought a cheap little thing and can't comprehend why it's still running. Can't get them anymore, but it just plain rocks.

I feel so out of it, everyone has much cooler gear than I do. I am going to have to finish that GS1 just to save face!

Michael Teahan
Espresso Part Source

Upgrading La Spaziale S1 to: MK2, GS/3, or Speedster?

Sun, 01 Aug 2010 01:00:29 GMT

by gyro on Sat Jul 31, 2010 9:00 pm

As I've posted elsewhere, pass on a Robur-E for home use due to huge amount of stale coffee in the grind path. Awesome grinder for a cafe, not for home. I would recommend the Nino or from what I hear the Compak K10 if you want a dosered option. I think the Major-E would be a possibility here also, a large flat burr doserless suitable for home usage, but perhaps in that category the K30 has a larger following.

My only hesitation re the Nino is that for it to be suitable, you don't want to change coffees every day, and you need to leave 100g or so of beans in the hopper. If that fits with your usage, then the Nino is excellent.

Cupping, the ultimate travel coffee prep?

Sun, 01 Aug 2010 00:51:05 GMT

by chang00 on Sat Jul 31, 2010 8:51 pm

This is what I use during travel in foreign countries. I just bring coffee and a light plastic grinder like the Hario Slim in addition.

http://www.coffeegeek.com/forums/coffee/machines/436200

La Marzocco GS3 massive water leak through OPV-saga details

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 22:44:26 GMT

by A2chromepeacock on Sat Jul 31, 2010 11:37 pm

Yeah, I think it'll be major surgery to get at that check valve. I'm not looking forward to it, but I'll discuss it with Chris's folks this week.

I am concerned that it's scale formation. When I removed the outlet pipe from the steam boiler, there was a small amount of greenish scale buildup at the inlet. Very small amount, but still...wouldn't take much to jam up a check valve, I don't think.

I'm using a cation exchange softener from Chris, followed by a 10 micron carbon block filter setup. It had done a very good job of softening my water, as detailed here: Testing the water produced by the "Chris Coffee" water treatment system

But I haven't checked the hardness in a few months--it may be that the cartridges exhausted faster than I thought they would--they've been in place for 9 months with ~2-3 shot per day usage. One americano, one shot, one latte.

I was going to ask in a separate post about descaling, to keep this one focused on the issue mentioned....I think I'll write that other post now!

Derek
LMWDP #139

Max water pressure for plumbed in espresso machine

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 22:26:28 GMT

by cannonfodder on Sat Jul 31, 2010 11:23 pm

Most of the machines I have used have a max input of 4 bar. I measure that as static pressure, no flow. I run 3 bar static on my A3 which dips to around 2 bar with water flow.

Dave Stephens

Hand grinders for pump-driven espresso machines?

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 21:38:11 GMT

by Bacms on Sat Jul 31, 2010 5:38 pm

I have a Hario has well and it works well with my Hario Skerton. To avoid the coking of the river you can also play with the dose I am trapped having to use as much as 16g on my gaggia classic. Which already means having the coffee touching the shower screen.

San Francisco HB Get Together Report

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 21:22:17 GMT

by Mayhem on Sat Jul 31, 2010 5:22 pm

Sounds like you had a great time. Assuming his visa goes through a friend of mine will be moving to SF soon, will have to visit him at a time that coincides with a future H-B get together...

I'm drinking the Tim Wendelboe Cielito Lindo roasted for espresso right now. Truly an excellent coffee, but then it should be at $39 per pound!

Too much is not enough

Autofill activates wrong solenoid

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 21:02:48 GMT

by frankmoss on Sat Jul 31, 2010 5:02 pm

I've been restoring a second Faema Compact. It was working properly until today. I replaced the old Ulka with a newer one. The newer Ulkas only have two connections, so I left the third (ground) unconnected. Everyting appeared to work fine until I tested the autofill. It had previously been working fine, but this time it energized the 3-way solenoid, and the pump did not activate. The autofill solenoid did not activate either. I'm pretty sure that the wiring is hooked up correctly because it was previously working. Has anyone ever heard of this? Could this have something to do with the new pump? Thanks in advance.

Cusinart CBM 18 at W/S

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 20:35:47 GMT

by Psyd on Sat Jul 31, 2010 4:35 pm

A friend just called, and said that they have this grinder, a conical, for about a hundred bucks. They're presently pulling with a Mypressi Twist, and I've found that the machine that reacts most similarly to the grinder I'm using is the Gaggia Factory 106, which is almost identical to the La Pavoni Europiccola.

Anyone have any experience with this grinder? Any idea what I should tell them?
I've already suggested a great semi-commercial on CG, and I'll get them into a Baratza Maestro if nothing else comes up, but I'm almost completely ignorant of this conical and don't want to steer them away from it if it's a great deal.

Espresso Sniper
One Shot, One Kill

LMWDP #175

Cunill Tranquilo stopped grinding

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 18:09:09 GMT

by cafeIKE on Sat Jul 31, 2010 2:09 pm

The Macap MC4 is behaving similarly with an unusually large bean, oily coffee that contains a lot of broken beans, shells and divots. It's quite obvious by sound the feed has stopped. Turn off the grinder, stir the beans in the hopper throat and resume.

Ian's Coffee Stuff
http://www.ieLogical.com/coffee

Red Bird Espresso

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 17:33:46 GMT

by Cathi on Sat Jul 31, 2010 1:33 pm

I've been enjoying this blend for the past week or two, mostly in iced lattes. I'd be interested to know what the educated palate folks think of it.

Cathi
LMWDP #113

How was your morning coffee today?

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 17:23:49 GMT

by michael on Sat Jul 31, 2010 1:23 pm

toscano latte, 20gs, 30 second pull, great stuff

Kyocera CM45 CF vs. Hario Skerton

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 17:21:34 GMT

by yakster on Sat Jul 31, 2010 1:21 pm

I've never used the Porlex, so I can't comment, but sometimes I wish that this grinder was available when I purchased the Kyocera... because of the stainless steel body (supposed to reduce static cling) and because it will fit inside an AeroPress. I think that the Hario Sketon is popular both because of the name and price.

No espresso for me today (yet), just a single Cafe Americano (drip coffee) and snacks for lunch since I was one of the few people working today. The people I've been working with in Italy don't seem to relish working overtime or on weekends, and everyone seems to be getting ready to go on vacation now.

-Chris

-Chris

LMWDP # 272

Please Recommend Some Coffee Shops in Brooklyn and Manhattan

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 17:20:45 GMT

by michael on Sat Jul 31, 2010 1:20 pm

in manhattan, kaffe 1668, bluebird and rbc

Paradox: The LM double basket

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 16:59:29 GMT

by mteahan on Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:11 am

The baskets we have thus far are similar to the highly polished baskets (previous page, on the right), but we have two different hole diameters. They didn't tell us the actual size, just that the microfine was to address one roaster's concerns of too many solids in the bottom of the cup.

The standard hole diameter is only in the Faema tapered 14 gram basket (still fits any 58mm portafilter) and the triple with a slight outward ridge. My guess is that the 14 gram won't take a lot of up dosing. The microfine will probably push 18 grams.

The Synesso baskets don't come from Italy and are the standard design. There is some talk of the round punches to make the perforations not clogging as easily. These are available from Stefano, Great Infusions and Espresso Parts as well; always good to support those who support Home-Barista.

There are some changes on the screen front as well: smaller and more numerous holes, unwelded screens welded screens without the retention ring (twice the welds, bullet proof). It seems to be an industry move and not something specific to our suppliers.

Michael Teahan
Espresso Part Source

Do I need to lubricate seals on Olympia Cremina?

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 16:38:07 GMT

by espressme on Sat Jul 31, 2010 12:38 pm

For myself, I just loosen the nuts on the piston shaft about four turns, and pop the pin out of the lever and shaft. I push the piston rod down, if it does not pop the screen off, I then add a turn on the nuts till it does. Then I can clean the piston face and then pull the piston up and make a thin film of Dow around the inside of the cylinder. Re-assemble and you are good to go.
Here is method of keeping clean:
here
~Richard

richard penney LMWDP #090,

First espresso machine ever

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 15:25:44 GMT

by CafSuperCharged on Sat Jul 31, 2010 11:25 am

A few more or less related thoughts.

Bruno, I am pointing to the relative importance of the grinder and supportive evidence to that position. If I were you, I would not step up to a suboptimal offer that might be marginally better. If you want to spend money, find a used/refurbished PID and put it on that Gaggia machine. Its intra-shot stability will not improve, but intershot repeatability will as well as you will know what the machine is doing.
I am considering to spend some money on a PID for my backup machine (a simple pod-only machine with alternate brew and steam temperatures - I never do milk-based because of a milk protein allergy).
If you move to another machine, you can keep the PID and move it to the next one.

As I do not do milk-based drinks ever, I do not steam ever. I concur however that, if the somewhat higher price were not a real problem, a HX or dual boiler might be a beter choice than a (simple) single boiler machine. You will have to assess my position against the Quick Mill Alexia community but watch out if the reports are from people who really understand coffee (you see so many "reviews" on the web of people being lyrical about something in the brochure or that they own for a few hours.)
There are several hypotheses, or actually maybe only one, I propose to second my position. One is the heat bump that the cold coffee may need initially to recover quickly and provide its deliciousness. Serious double boiler machines run water through a HX in the steam boiler before it enters the brew boiler and temperature setting is an issue when a machine is thermally entirely flat. Do you set it just too high to get complexity out of the coffee? With the risk to cause some heat damage in the end of the extraction? I am convinced a HX E61 actually addresses this problem in an elegant way.
(Here I have to thank home-barista Andrew Trzynka for getting a clearer view of this E61 behaviour.)
The problem with simpler E61 machines is their reduced thermal inertia compared to the real big original renders them less predictable so some instrumentation helps to quicker develop insight in the machine's behaviour (EricS adapter, and/or digital thermometer, and/or PID, and scales and a good grinder).
During idle the E61 becomes too hot, which we solve by flushing, but this is less of an issue on a no-Hx single boiler. So we flush, then wait. In the wait time, the water in the Hx loop actually becomes a little too hot. When we start the pump and switch the 3 way valve, fresh water comes into the Hx, and over-pressure exits through the OPV after the Hx. Except for the little bit of too hot water that is still in the Hx loop before the OPV opens that helps compensate for the cold coffee.
A well designed E61 Hx therefor potentially gets more of the complexity out of the coffee than a non-Hx single or a simple dual boiler machine. I am still in doubt a dual boiler can be made that solves my complexity requirement adequately.

Regards
Peter